Who: Ydwer, Monique, Lennox (6 years old), and Zoë (4 years old)
Route: San José – Puerto Viejo – La Fortuna – Monteverde – Manuel Antonio National Park – Uvita – Drake Bay and Corcovado National Park – Dominical – Playa Hermosa – San José
When: 2026

Just before New Year’s Eve, the four of us boarded a plane bound for Costa Rica. Welcoming a new year surrounded by rainforests, beaches, mountains, and volcanoes sounded like the perfect adventure. With backpacks on our backs and two curious children aged 4 and 6, we set off on our journey. The direct KLM flight of approximately 11.5 hours went surprisingly smoothly. After arrival, we picked up our rental car and drove to a hotel near the airport. The next morning, our Costa Rica road trip would truly begin: destination, the Caribbean coast.

First Stop: Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean Coast

Our journey begins in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, a laid-back coastal town with a unique atmosphere. Surfers, backpackers, families, and locals all blend together effortlessly here. Reggae music and Bob Marley tunes fill the air, fresh smoothies are prepared everywhere, and bottles of Imperial beer appear as the sun sets. With your feet in the sand, you gaze out over the ocean—and sometimes a curious capuchin monkey suddenly wanders by.

Cahuita National Park with Children

On our first day, we lace up our hiking boots and visit Cahuita National Park. Here, rainforest, mangroves, and coral reefs come together. We walk the approximately 8-kilometer coastal trail. The route is varied, with sections on easy paths and stretches through dense jungle. We regularly cool off in the sea, making the hike manageable even for our youngest child. Along the way, we spot monkeys, a raccoon, a sloth, and a bright yellow eyelash viper.

Exploring the Caribbean Beaches

We discover some of the most beautiful beaches on Costa Rica’s Caribbean side. Punta Uva is our favorite, where tropical rainforest meets golden sand. Playa Chiquita is equally stunning. At the end of the narrow path leading to the beach, we spot a mother sloth and her baby from very close range. Playa Cocles is lively and a great place for surfing, although the waves are a bit too wild for us. Playa Puerto Viejo, located in the village itself, is lined with beach bars and restaurants. It’s the perfect place for an evening meal with your feet in the sand.

Jaguar Rescue Center: Wildlife Up Close

Puerto Viejo offers much more than tropical beaches. Between Playa Cocles, Punta Uva, and Playa Chiquita are several wonderful conservation initiatives, including the Jaguar Rescue Center. More than a thousand injured or orphaned animals are cared for here each year, including sloths, monkeys, birds, and snakes.

Many animals are injured by traffic or poorly insulated power lines. During a guided tour—conducted in pouring rain in our case—a Belgian guide explains how the animals are rehabilitated and eventually released back into their natural habitat. It is impressive to see how seriously wildlife protection is taken here.

Volunteering with the Bribri Community

One of the most memorable experiences of our trip is volunteering with El Puente – The Bridge. This organization supports the local community and works closely with the Bribri, one of Costa Rica’s eight Indigenous groups.

We help out during two community soup days. Together, we prepare a large pot of soup with rice, which is distributed the following day to residents of the Bribri village. We share a meal, chat with locals, and gain insight into everyday life.

El Puente functions as a community center where children receive school supplies, English lessons are offered, and educational nature conservation activities are organized. What stays with us most is the mutual exchange: the Bribri share their extensive knowledge of flora, fauna, and sustainable living in the jungle. It’s a side of Costa Rica that most travelers never get to see.

Visiting a Jungle Farm Near Cahuita

On our final day on the Caribbean coast, we visit friends whom we met nine years ago while crossing the ocean from Colombia to Portugal. They now live with their family in the jungle near Cahuita.

With our 4×4—absolutely essential here—we reach their farm hidden among the greenery. Sheep, goats, chickens, and a newborn lamb roam freely. They are working on creating an off-grid community for families who want to live closer to nature.

We hike to a hidden waterfall, taste fresh cacao fruit straight from the tree, and drink coconut water from a freshly opened coconut. The children love it. Life here is simpler, yet incredibly rich in nature and freedom.

After a week of Caribbean vibes, it is time to head inland. Next stop: the volcanoes of northern Costa Rica.

La Fortuna: Hanging Bridges, Volcanoes, and Hot Springs

Leaving the east coast behind, we drive to La Fortuna in northern Costa Rica. This region is famous for the Arenal Volcano, rainforests, and thermal springs.

Mistico Hanging Bridges

At Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park, we walk across suspension bridges that soar up to 45 meters above the rainforest. The views over the jungle and, on clear days, the Arenal Volcano are spectacular. The first bridges are exciting, especially if you are not fond of heights, but before long we are thoroughly enjoying the scenery.

Arenal Volcano

The next day, we explore the area surrounding the iconic Arenal Volcano, which last erupted in 1992. We hike across old lava fields and through dense rainforest. Curious coatis cross our path, and the volcano is clearly visible through the clouds, except for its summit.

Hot Springs at El Choyin

Several hot springs are located around the volcano, heated by geothermal activity deep underground. We choose the natural river at El Choyin, where warm water flows between the rocks. Unlike many nearby thermal resorts that charge high entrance fees, access to the river is completely free and provides a fantastic experience. It is the perfect way to relax after several active hiking days.

Into the Cloud Forest of Monteverde

Via a winding mountain road along Lake Arenal, we drive from La Fortuna to Monteverde. The higher we climb, the cooler the air becomes. Monteverde is famous for its mystical cloud forest, an ecosystem where mist hangs among the trees almost constantly, creating a fairy-tale atmosphere and extraordinary biodiversity.

In the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, we walk among towering trees covered with epiphytes, mosses, and ferns. We watch monkeys swinging through the canopy, spot colorful hummingbirds, and discover a waterfall hidden among the greenery. It feels completely different from the coast—cooler, quieter, and slightly magical.

Coffee, Chocolate, and Sugar Cane

One of our favorite activities in Monteverde is visiting a family-run farm for a coffee, chocolate, and sugar cane tour. We stroll through coffee plants and sugar cane fields while our guide explains how these products are cultivated and processed.

We see how sugar cane is traditionally pressed in a “trapiche,” taste fresh sugar cane juice, and learn how cacao becomes chocolate. The children’s highlight? Making sugar cane candy themselves and, of course, tasting everything.

Ziplining Above the Cloud Forest

Monteverde is also famous for its canopy tours. Today, Lennox and Ydwer go ziplining, soaring above the cloud forest from platform to platform. In total, they fly across 13 ziplines, including one nearly a kilometer long. The famous Tarzan Swing adds an extra dose of adrenaline.

Zoë decides that sounds a bit too adventurous and visits the butterfly garden with Monique instead. There, we observe the full life cycle of butterflies and have several land on our arms. The brilliant blue Morpho butterfly—Costa Rica’s national symbol—is the star of the show.

Via the Crocodile Bridge to Manuel Antonio

We leave Monteverde behind and head south. Along the way, we stop at the famous Tarcoles Bridge, where enormous crocodiles often bask beneath the bridge. We spot one calmly floating in the water.

Our next destination is Manuel Antonio National Park, a unique combination of tropical rainforest and white-sand beaches. Although it is one of Costa Rica’s smallest national parks, it is also one of the most visited—and it shows. The park feels noticeably busier than the other nature reserves we have visited.

With a guide, we search for wildlife. Through his telescope, we see bats, a sloth, colorful motmot birds, and several monkey species. Afterward, we cool off on the beach inside the park, where the ocean is calm and crystal clear.

Our small bed and breakfast sits right next to the park entrance. Large iguanas roam the garden, and monkeys swing through the trees. Even outside the park, wildlife is everywhere.

Guiding Baby Sea Turtles to the Ocean

Just north of Manuel Antonio, we unexpectedly discover a sea turtle conservation project where baby turtles are being released that very evening. Although we had planned to continue directly to Uvita, we decide to make a detour to Palo Seco to witness this special event.

At Tortugas Costa Rica, a turtle hatchery, nests are protected from predators and poaching. Sadly, sea turtle eggs are still highly sought after and are often stolen at night. The hatchery provides a safe place for the eggs to incubate until they hatch.

After dark, the project leader explains how the process works and outlines the rules: no white lights, no touching, and always keep your distance. We then watch 99 baby olive ridley sea turtles make their way toward the ocean. Statistically, only one of them is expected to survive to adulthood. Realizing how fragile this process is leaves a deep impression on all of us, especially the children.

Uvita & Marino Ballena National Park

After the unforgettable evening with the baby sea turtles, we continue on to Uvita, a small coastal town along the Costa Ballena. The town itself is simple and laid-back, but the surroundings are spectacular. Dense rainforest meets long, quiet beaches and an ocean frequented by whales and dolphins.

Uvita serves as the gateway to Marino Ballena National Park, famous for its whale-tail-shaped sandbar that becomes visible at low tide. We visit the park and stroll along the wide beach while the children collect seashells.

These days also provide an opportunity to slow down a bit. We spend time by the pool at our B&B, catch up on some work, and help Lennox with his school assignments. Slowing down is part of a Costa Rica road trip too.

Heading South: Towards Drake Bay

The following morning, we drive to Sierpe, where our journey to Drake Bay begins. Corcovado National Park is known as one of the most biodiverse places on Earth, and even getting there feels like an expedition.

At the river port of Sierpe, we return our 4×4 rental car. “River port” sounds official, but in reality it is a restaurant with a dock where boats depart. From here, we board a speedboat with around twenty passengers. First, we travel for an hour along the river, passing mangroves and dense vegetation. Then we head out into open water for the final stretch across the sea.

There is no pier in Drake Bay, which means a so-called “wet landing”: stepping directly into the water and walking ashore with backpacks and children. It is an adventurous start to our stay.

On the beach, we are welcomed by Cathy from Casita Corcovado, our accommodation for the next four nights.

First Impressions of Drake Bay

Drake Bay immediately feels different from the rest of Costa Rica. There are no paved roads, only sandy paths. Instead of large resorts, there are small-scale accommodations. Just a handful of restaurants and a relaxed atmosphere that feels almost timeless.

The village of Agujitas, where we stay, is small and welcoming. The jungle stretches all the way to the beach, and life moves at a slower pace here. No rush, no crowds—just nature, simplicity, and pura vida.

Our cottage at Casita Corcovado is a wonderful place where we can cook our own meals and spend evenings playing games with the children. Looking out over the ocean, we realize how special it is to be so far removed from the modern world.

Tomorrow we will hike the Drake Trail, but today we simply explore the village and the beach, collect shells, and settle into this remote corner of Costa Rica.

The Drake Trail: Jungle, Beaches, and Coconuts

Several hiking trails start from Drake Bay, but the Drake Trail is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful. The route winds along deserted beaches, through patches of rainforest, and across small streams. A guide is not necessary; sturdy shoes and plenty of water are all you need.

We encounter very few other hikers along the way. Instead, we are surrounded by the sound of cicadas and the sight of monkeys moving through the trees. Halfway through the trail, we meet a colorful character who looks as though he stepped straight out of Pirates of the Caribbean. At his jungle hut, he sells coconuts, opening them effortlessly with a few precise strikes of his machete. We drink fresh coconut water through bamboo straws.

The full trail is about 11 kilometers long, but halfway there is a simple local eatery, known as a soda. After four or five hours of hiking and cooling off in the ocean, a fresh smoothie is more than welcome. The owner even drives us back to Drake Bay in his own car—for a small fee—which saves our tired children from a long walk back.

During the drive, he tells us about life in the region. Only about 1,200 people live permanently in the entire Drake Bay area. Agujitas, with just a few streets, is the largest village. Elementary schools are established whenever enough children live in a community, often with multiple age groups sharing a single classroom. It offers fascinating insight into just how isolated this region really is.

Back in Drake Bay, we end the day with a plate of homemade pasta and a game of checkers, a game the children recently learned from their grandparents.

Corcovado National Park: Nature at Its Wildest

Our final day in Drake Bay is dedicated to Corcovado National Park. The park is often described as one of the most pristine wilderness areas in Costa Rica—and even in all of Central America. Despite its relatively small size, it is estimated to contain around 2.5% of the world’s biodiversity.

At 5:45 a.m., we gather on the beach and board a small boat with our guide and another traveler. After about an hour at sea, we arrive at the shores of Corcovado. We disembark directly into the water and walk through the surf and across rocks to reach the beach, where park rangers inspect our bags. Disposable plastic bottles and food are not allowed, all in an effort to protect the ecosystem.

Only about 300 to 350 visitors are allowed into the 424-square-kilometer park each day. Rangers assign routes to guides to ensure visitor numbers remain evenly distributed.

We opt for a day trip. Overnight stays are possible, but with young children, a day hike seems adventurous enough. Indeed, we notice very few families with young kids in the park.

Using his telescope, our guide Edin helps us spot wildlife we would otherwise have missed. We see toucans, roseate spoonbills, crocodiles, several monkey species, and a large group of coatis. Tapirs remain hidden today; they are most often seen near Sirena Ranger Station in the evening.

Around noon, we reach the ranger station, where all tour groups gather for lunch. Afterward, we hike back to the coast via a different route. During the boat ride back, we even spot a flying fish and pass a waterfall before Drake Bay comes back into view.

The rest of the day is dedicated to relaxing. The children work on their school assignments, we catch up on some work of our own, and we begin packing. Our stay in Drake Bay is almost over—and what an unforgettable chapter it has been in our Costa Rica adventure.

Dominical: A Surf Town on the Southern Coast

After Drake Bay, we take the boat back to Sierpe, where our rental car is waiting for us for the final leg of our journey. From there, we continue to Dominical, a small beach town on Costa Rica’s rugged southern Pacific coast.

The town itself consists mainly of a single main street lined with dirt roads, surf shops, colorful cafés, and a handful of excellent restaurants. The atmosphere is relaxed, slightly alternative, and unmistakably geared toward surfers.

We spend three nights in a charming boutique hotel with a swimming pool and an open-air bar. It provides the perfect opportunity to catch up on work and school assignments, but of course we also make time to explore.

Dominical’s wide beach is impressive and wild, but we quickly fall in love with Playa Dominicalito, located a little farther down the coast. This sheltered bay, with its golden sand and swaying palm trees, offers gentler waves—ideal for children and beginner surfers alike.

We rent a surfboard and, after a few wipeouts, manage to catch some beautiful waves. Thankfully, the surfing lessons we took years ago have not been completely forgotten.

That evening, we enjoy dinner at one of the cozy restaurants in town. Tomorrow brings one final natural highlight.

Nauyaca Waterfalls: A Spectacular Finale

From Dominical, we drive to Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park, home to one of Costa Rica’s most impressive waterfalls. The Nauyaca Falls consist of two sections that together plunge approximately 60 meters into a large, crystal-clear pool below.

From the entrance, a 4×4 vehicle takes us to the beginning of the hiking trail. It is possible to walk the entire route, but with young children—and after all the hiking we have already done in Costa Rica—we decide to save some energy.

From there, we descend on foot through a botanical garden and a section of rainforest. After about thirty minutes, we reach the lower pool, and the view is every bit as spectacular as we had hoped.

The water is cool and deep, around six meters in places, so Lennox—who recently earned his swimming certificate—wears flotation armbands just to be safe. Together, we swim toward the waterfall, climb across the rocks beneath the cascade, and jump back into the water.

Zoë prefers the shallow area, where she becomes fascinated by a tiny frog that lands on her swimsuit.

We also visit the upper section of the falls. Along the way, we spot a toucan. On the walk back to the pickup point, we receive one final surprise: a sloth hanging low in a tree, perfectly visible this time.

We recognize the distinctive face of a three-toed sloth, with its dark stripe across the forehead and dark markings around the eyes that create an almost smiling expression.

It feels like the perfect ending to the day—and, in many ways, to our entire journey.

Playa Hermosa & An Unexpected Encounter

Reluctantly, we say goodbye to Dominical, a place where we could easily have stayed much longer. Our return flight is approaching, but we still have one night left before heading back to San José.

Our earlier meeting with Dustin, the biologist from the sea turtle conservation project at Palo Seco, gives us an idea. He had mentioned that their organization is also active at Playa Hermosa and invited us to visit.

So, we spend our final night on the dark, almost black-sand beach of Playa Hermosa.

Dustin shows us the hatchery and explains in detail the work being done to protect sea turtles in the area. We also take the opportunity to interview him about the project while standing on the beach itself.

On the way to our hotel, we spot several scarlet macaws perched in the palm trees along the coast. Later that evening, we have dinner in nearby Jacó, which feels noticeably larger and livelier than Playa Hermosa.

The next morning, we enjoy breakfast overlooking the ocean—and a pig casually wandering through the restaurant garden.

One last swim.

One last walk into the waves.

Back to San José and Home

Then the moment arrives.

We drive back to San José, making one final stop at the Tarcoles crocodile bridge. This time, we spot four crocodiles!

Afterward, we return our faithful 4×4—the vehicle that carried us through mountains, rainforests, beaches, and remote corners of the country.

At the airport, we say goodbye to Costa Rica.

What a country.

What incredible nature.

What an unforgettable adventure with our children.

Adiós Costa Rica, pura vida!

Our Accommodations

We thoroughly enjoyed all of our accommodations and would happily recommend each of them:

• Day 1: Arrival in San José – Wyndham San Jose Herradura
• Days 2–7: Puerto Viejo – Escape Caribeño
• Days 8–10: La Fortuna – Orquideas Boutique Hotel
• Days 11–12: Monteverde – Hotel Claro de Luna
• Days 13–14: Manuel Antonio – La Posada Jungle Hotel
• Days 15–16: Uvita – Ballena Rey Hotel
• Days 17–20: Drake Bay – Casita Corcovado

Tip: Visit the website, and if you mention during your booking that you’re coming via GlobeHopper, you’ll receive a discount and pay the Friends & Family rate!

• Days 21–23: Dominical – Rio Lindo Hotel
• Day 24: Playa Hermosa – The Backyard Beachfront Hotel
• Day 25: Return flight with KLM

Rental Car in Costa Rica

We booked our rental car through a local Costa Rica car rental specialist and were extremely satisfied with the service, value for money, and support throughout the trip.

As a family of four, we chose a midsize SUV. In practice, this turned out to be a comfortable Hyundai Tucson. Having a 4×4 proved very useful on several occasions.

In addition to the standard insurance, we opted for the most comprehensive protection package. This eliminated all deductibles in the event of damage, loss, theft, or third-party liability claims. Roadside assistance and towing services were also included.

Because roads in Costa Rica can occasionally be rough and sometimes involve gravel sections, the extra coverage gave us great peace of mind. We never had to worry about unexpected repair costs or damage caused by loose stones.

For our 4-year-old, we rented a child safety seat, while our 6-year-old used a booster seat.

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